Bethlehem

Bethlehem, the town Jesus was born, in is NOT the Bethlehem you might imagine. Every Christmas, we sing songs like “O Little Town of Bethlehem, How Still we See Thee Lie." But nothing could be further from the truth.

Bethlehem, as someone said yesterday to me, is one giant prison. It is hard not to make that connection. Surrounded by 10 ft walls, patrolled by soldiers, needing to go through security clearance and metal detectors to get in and out… Bethlehem is indeed one giant prison.

Yesterday, a fellow pastor named Ian and I walked out of Tantur (the college), through security (complete with barb wired fences) into Bethlehem. Israelites are not permitted into the West Bank and only Palestinians with proper documents are allowed out. One Palestinian woman that was admitted to the Jerusalem Art College has never been able to attend even one class, because she isn’t allowed to leave the West Bank (and that was 9 years ago!)

As soon as Ian and I crossed the checkpoint, 4 or 5 taxi drivers rushed towards us, begging for us to hop into their taxi. We eventually got into the cab of “Teffelin” (sp?), who drove us to Manger Square where the Church of Nativity is located.

Teffelin shared that he was a teacher by profession, but he can’t find a teaching position in Bethlehem. Nor can he leave the West Bank, so he is stuck driving a taxi. He says it’s better than nothing, but he hates begging tourists to get into his cab. He has to make a living. He has a family and a five-year-old son to support. My Audrey is five years old. I have all these hopes and wishes for my daughter. But what hope does Teffelin has for his son?

Later than evening, as I stood on the roof-top of a Palestinian Christian church (Bethlehem is 30% Christian and 70% Muslim), looking out at the Bethlehem sky-line, I found myself confused, angry, sad, paralyzed, and without hope…

Is this NOT the same Bethlehem that Jesus was born into?
• Jesus was born in a Bethlehem that was under the thumb of Roman oppression
• Jesus was born in a Bethlehem that was the site of a terrible genocide under Herod.
• Jesus was born to two parents in Bethlehem, who had to escape in the middle of night to Egypt.
Jesus was born into a Bethlehem that hasn’t changed very much in the last 2,000 years.

I stood there on the roof-top praying… and hoping. Jesus was born in Bethlehem in order to make things right. Not only for those who lived in Bethlehem 2,000 years ago, but for those who live in Bethlehem today. Jesus was born to make things right. And I have to hope that one day, it really will all be made right.

Bethesda

It’s quiet. I’m sitting in the pews of St. Anne’s church in Jerusalem – the supposed place that the Virgin Mary was born. Outside the walls of the church is the cacophony of noise that is the old city of Jerusalem, complete with tourists, cars, and buses, but all I hear is the sound of birds outside in the courtyard and the quiet steps of people who have chosen to visit St. Anne’s.

The first group of people were a dozen Korean pilgrims who have gathered in front of the church to sing a Christian chorus in Korean. The acoustics, like the Church in Shepherd’s field, are amazing! Although I don’t understand what they are singing, it is beautiful nonetheless. After some time, a family from Germany (I think) comes into the church and sit together in the front pew. They then begin to sing a hymn I don’t know, but with a somewhat familiar tune.

• What is it with all these pilgrims that feel compelled to sing in sacred places in Jerusalem?
• What is it about this place that draws so many to visit? Why am I here?
• What questions do I seek answers to?
• Why do I struggle with hearing God’s voice?
• Why do I constantly struggle with not being good-enough, worthy, or deserving of God’s grace?
• Where I need healing in my life?

St. Anne’s also happens to be the location of the pools of Bethesda. The name is derived from the Aramaic meaning “house of mercy or house of grace. Bethesda is the location, as recorded in John 5, in which Jesus heals an invalid.

1Some time later, Jesus went up to Jerusalem for a feast of the Jews. 2Now there is in Jerusalem near the Sheep Gate a pool, which in Aramaic is called Bethesda and which is surrounded by five covered colonnades. 3Here a great number of disabled people used to lie—the blind, the lame, the paralyzed. 5One who was there had been an invalid for thirty-eight years. 6When Jesus saw him lying there and learned that he had been in this condition for a long time, he asked him, "Do you want to get well?"
7"Sir," the invalid replied, "I have no one to help me into the pool when the water is stirred. While I am trying to get in, someone else goes down ahead of me."
8Then Jesus said to him, "Get up! Pick up your mat and walk." 9At once the man was cured; he picked up his mat and walked.

I assume this is where Bethesda Christian Association, the organization that provides care for those with developmental disabilities that I volunteer with, derives its name from.

As I sit in St. Anne’s on the ruins of the Pool of Bethesda, a large group of Danish tourists come in next and begin to fill up the church. They, of course, begin to also sing. They begin to sing “How Great the Art” – a hymn that I know! And the chorus, which I sing along to, begins to sink in…
Then sings my soul, my Saviour God, to Thee;
How great Thou art, how great Thou art!

The questions I had when I came in were now being slowly answered. My focus was too much on me (what I can do, who I am, etc.) and not on God. We all have something we are dealing with. Some sin, some guilt, some fear that we all deal with. We don’t need to run away from it. We just need to let go and leave it up to Jesus. For it is Jesus who heals the invalid. It is Jesus who will meet us regardless of where we are. Jesus the healer.

Hezekiah's Tunnel

Hezekiah's Tunnel is a tunnel that was dug underneath Jerusalem before 701 BC during the reign of Hezekiah. The tunnel was designed to act as an aqueduct to provide Jerusalem with water during an impending siege by the Assyrians. The curving tunnel is 533 m long.

Yesterday, I waffled about whether to go into the tunnel or not. I found myself surprisingly somewhat worried and fearful.
• Was I claustrophobic? Will I have trouble breathing?
• Was I going to be difficult with my ACL repaired knee?
• What would happen if I freaked out half way in the tunnel?

More than half of our group decided not to go into the tunnel and so that certainly didn’t help! However, this was a once in a lifetime opportunity, I’ve gone spelunking before, and life is about taking risks (isn’t it?) so I jumped in! As you may have seen from my facebook pics and video, it was a blast!

Near the end of our tunnel walk, our Jewish “Indiana Jones” guide (Alan Rabinowiz) asked us to turn off all our flashlights, and to sing together Amazing Grace. The acoustics in the tunnel were amazing, and the line in the song that just jumped out at me was:
I once was lost but now am found,

Was blind, but now I see.

We continued singing as we started walking again… but this time without any flashlights. We walked in the darkness until we saw a glimmer of light that came from the mouth of the cave exit.

I don’t know how many times in my life that I have said to someone – “there is light at the end of the tunnel.” And I don’t want to make a big deal about it, but in a small way, this walk in Hezekiah’s Tunnel was a physical expression of a spiritual truth. In the darkness of doubt, and fear, and worry… we just need to keep on walking. God, in his amazing grace, will meet us on the other side. He always will. There is always light at the end of the tunnel.

Shepherd's Field

Yesterday, we crossed security into the West Bank Palestinian Territory of Bethlehem (you need to go through a security check and show your passport every time you cross into and out of the West Bank *compared to Palestinians, we crossed security quickly and hassle-free). We went to numerous shrines and temples (the Church of Nativity, the Milk Grotto, Herodias), but without doubt, the hi-light of the day was a visit to Shepherd’s Field. Shepherd’s Field is supposedly the place were the shepherds were tending sheep the night Jesus was born. They were woken up in the middle of the night by an army of heavenly hosts who gloriously announced the birth of the Messiah.

We went to a small domed chapel there. Compared to the other gaudy, ornate, and crowded shrines and churches I’ve seen the last two weeks, this was a plain and simple church. Since there was no other group there, the 34 of us decided to sing “Angels we have heard on High!” It was amazing! The acoustics were amazing! I was absolutely surprised at the beauty, the harmony, and the quality of the voices that seemed to surround me. It was like the sound of angels.

And then it hit me! Was that not what happened almost 2,000 years ago? Perhaps at the exact same place! A multitude of angels had appeared before the shepherds to make the same beautiful declaration (a declaration we can live into today!)
Glory to God in the highest,
and on earth peace to men on whom his favor rests."

Mustafa

Just heard a lecture from a Professor in Islamic Studies named Mustafa Abu Sway. His lecture was full of content, far too much to write down or for me to even begin to understand. However, what was good about his presentation was the reminder that our knowledge about Islam is so very reductionist, stereotyped, and informed by popular media. (just like how some people’s knowledge about Christianity is stereotyped and mis-informed by Media - i.e. how people think we Christians are all Right Wing American Conservatives).

When Abu Sway was watching TV on Sept 11, 2001, and I quote “when I was home, and watched it on TV, the second tower getting hit, and then I saw the first person jump and… I cried.” He was interviewed by a numerous media folks the next day, but not one of them carried his story. The media wasn’t looking for a Muslim scholar who cried.

He then spoke with passion about the 1 billion people in the world who don’t have water, who don’t have food, who are illiterate, and the responsibility of being not only human, but also a Muslim, to do something about it - serving God and others. It was a good reminder not to paint anyone or any ethnic group, religion, and ideology with a broad brush.

Italian Musings!

Last Night in the eternal city! So, some quick thoughts about my 4 days in Rome

1. Big one-page maps rock! Forget the maps in guidebooks or fancy “City” Moleskins, all you need is a big one-page map that you can pick up at any hotel.

2. I’m internet dependent (*not addicted… just dependent!) It was so nice to be able to receive encouraging words from people back home, hear what they are doing, post some pictures, and best of all, see and hear my two girls on Skype!

3. Italians are one big Benetton ad! Italians, generally, always look well put together. The standard “young” Italian look? Dark skinny jeans, black top, fancy jacket, good hair and Chuck Taylors.

4. Traveling alone sucks. Although I got to do and see probably more than I would have been able to do with a traveling companion, I would definitely gladly trade it for a friend to explore with, talk to, and eat with!

5. When I needed a break, to get out of the rain, or just find someplace to sit – I always seemed to find myself in a cathedral. I must have walked into a dozen different churches. And each time, it was a welcome surprise. Rome is absolutely filled with a church on every main street and corner. They are all open, allowing tourists to see the some amazing art (Raphael, Bernini, etc.) And maybe that’s what EVERY church should be like. Sanctuary. A place to rest, find shelter, and experience beauty.

Italian Food!

After four days in Rome, I must admit that I’m not a big fan of Italian food (it seems that as I get older, I’m becoming more and more Asian!) Although, one thing I do like is that they love to eat outside! Streets are usually lined with cafés, trattorias, and bars. Some restaurants don’t even upon until 7:30 p.m. with 9:00 p.m. being the desired time for dinner. What have I had? Spaghetti alla carbonara (classic), beef carpaccio, pizza, and risotto mare e monti. Oh, and the going rate of a litre of house wine is $7.00 – something else I like!

Food is to be enjoyed with others – family, friends, community! I don’t particularly enjoy eating alone, so when I get back, we’re going out for dinner!

Vaticano

Having spent the day at the Vatican, including climbing up the 490 total steps to the top of the cupola (coming down those many steps is not good for the ACL!), visiting the Sistine Chapel, and roaming though all 11 chapels in St. Peter’s Basilica, I’d have to say that I rather prefer the small little newly painted Sage green church on No. 2 Road in Richmond. The Vatican was over-the-top!

What do you think Peter, the lowly fisherman disciple, thinks about all of this?

Colosseum

The "Leonardo Express" got me into Central Rome around 8:00 p.m. A 20 minute walk later I was at the Sant’ Anna Monastery. I checked in, grabbed my very first Italian Pie at a nearby “fast food-ish” place (they cut off a piece and measured it by it’s weight) and then walked over to the Colosseum which was only a few blocks away. Amazing! Here are pics of the coliseum from day 1 and day 2.

Most interesting thing about the Colosseum? Inaugurated in A.D. 80, the Colosseum was probably built with the spoils brought back from the Temple of Jerusalem at the end of the Jewish campaign! 55,000 spectators (around the size of BC place) would pour through the 80 arched entrances to see animal hunts in the morning, and gladiatorial contests in the afternoon.

Soure Catechiste di Sant’ Anna

The Sisters of Saint Ann are from Brazil, though culturally Ukrainian. They were brought to Rome by a refugee from a Soviet gulag, Cardinal Josef Slipyj, to welcome Ukrainian pilgrims and refugees. And for four nights in May 2010, a Chinese Canadian!

The convent faces onto the Piazza della Madonna dei Monti – a lively little Piazza. Kid’s play soccer against the convent wall, people mingle by the fountain, and eat in the 4 restaurants that circle the Piazza until 1:00 a.m. or so! Left picture is the view from my room!

The rooms are not posh (the washroom light flickers on and off, the showerhead keeps falling off, and the morning coffee is instant Nescafe!) but for 55 euro a night, I’m not complaining! After the poor breakfast, I spend some time in the monastery chapel (pic on right ) and then across the street for a real cappuccino!